Refurbishing my own Lightspeed Zulu 3 headset

 I've been a fan of Lightspeed headsets ever since the Zulu line came out.  (Prior to the Zulus, they were terrible headsets.)  I've used their "trade-up" program successfully, and I've also used it unsuccessfully (never got my rebate.  argh.)  Anyway, I digress.

I have an old Lightspeed Zulu 3 headset that is fine except that the rubber sheath on the headset cable is deteriorated and falling apart.  On a lark, I decided to do some searching for replacement parts and lo-and-behold, there are OEM compatible cable swaps on the Chinese retail site AliExpress! 

I ordered a set of cables and new ear pads, and the replacement went smoothly.  I figured I'd document the process here for the less hardware-inclined.

My worn-out Zulu 3 headset with the frayed cables

Here are the parts I ordered, though there are other similar listings if these are not available:

Cables:

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256807910739449.html

Note: There are two, and they're separate listings despite the photos.  The plugs-to-control box cable is "Color: Cable A" and the headset-to-control box cable is "Color: Cable B".  If you want to replace both (and you probably should if you're doing this anyway) you need to order both.

Ear Pads:

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256811692385860.html

Note: This listing also offers the headband pad.  Mine is fine, so I didn't replace it.

Naturally, shipping took a couple of weeks.

Tools required:

1 x T5 Torx driver (6-point star driver, 1.5mm)

1 x PH1 screwdriver (cross-head, but shallow.  Alternatively a precision slot head screwdriver would probably work)

Disassembly steps:

Step 1 (not shown): Remove the ear-pad from the cable side of the headset.  If you're replacing the ear pads too, might as well remove both.  They're clipped into the outer black-plastic ring.  I was able to get them out by just gripping the ear pad itself at the 12 o'clock position and pulling. (But not the black plastic ring on the headset, which does not come off.) 

Step 2:  Remove the batteries (if installed) from the control box, and remove the four T5 Torx screws holding it together.  Two are on the back near the upper cable.  The other two are inside the battery box.

Control box outer screws

Control box inner screws

Step 3:  Carefully remove the back cover from the control box to reveal the cable connectors.  Note, there are wires to the (loose) battery plate and the + battery terminal inside the rear cover which will remain attached.  Don't pull it too hard or too far.

Control box opened

Step 4: There are 4 cross-head screws holding the headset ear-piece together under the gray foam pad.  Two are near the cable, the other two are near the top. Pushing the pad aside with your fingers, remove each of them.

Step 5: The clamshell of the ear piece should come apart fairly easily.  If it doesn't make sure you completely loosened (or removed) all 4 screws. There are cables between the two halves that remain attached, so open it slowly and don't stress the cables too much.

Cable Replacement:

Step 6:  The headset cable is just press-fit into the earpiece plastic and the control box.  Gently pull the headset cable sheath out of the earpiece clamshell and disconnect the white cable harness by pulling gently on the plastic connector via the two tabs on the corners.  

1: Note the orientation of the connector - the exposed gold contacts face the earpiece.

2: Note the shape of the sheath with the asymmetric square.  This is the "earpiece end" of the cable. 

OEM cable removed from earpiece

Step 7 (not shown): Remove the other end of this cable from the control box in the same manner - pull the sheath out from the control box housing and unplug the associated connector harness, noting the orientation of the cable.

Step 8: Looking at the replacement cable, identify the headset end (asymmetric square piece on the sheath) vs the control box end:

Step 9: Remembering the earlier orientation, plus the new cable headset connector harness into the headset board and press the sheath into the clamshell opening, with the square side "up".  It should fit flush with the clamshell piece if you do it correctly.

Step 10: Put the earpiece / clamshell back together and gently tighten the four screws.  You're screwing into plastic, so do not over-tighten.  I turn them until they are "just snug" so I don't strip the plastic.

Step 11: Replace the "control-box to plugs" cable the same way, just pop out the old one, disconnect the wiring harness (noting the orientation), plug in the new one, and press the sheath back in.  Simple!

control box with new cables installed

Step 12:  Position the battery plate back into place in the rear housing of the control box, press it back together, and gently tighten the four T5 Torx screws.  Again, they're threading into plastic so do not over-tighten them.

Step 13: Replace the ear pads by pressing them into the earpiece rings with your fingers.  Voila!

You should now have a refurbished Zulu 3 headset!  I much prefer this braided cable set to the OEM rubber ones that came on the original Zulu 3s, too.  

Congrats, hope it went well!  Happy flying!